I hope everyone survived the storm unscathed? We lost power for two days, and my brother-in-law cleaned out our freezers. Melted ice cream made a mess. Otherwise no issues.

During the past year we have visited Greece, known for ancient history and architecture. Then we went to Egypt, where artifacts dating back 4,500 years seemed far more ancient. Now we have been to Matera, Italy where caves were first occupied in the Paleolithic Age (beginning 3 million years ago and with human form dating back 28,000 years ago). The 1500 natural caves were gradually burrowed deeper and expanded into living spaces by peasants and artisans throughout the classical and medieval eras.

In the 1950’s the few remaining residents were required to relocate to a “housing project” developed by the government. Then beginning in the 1990’s the historic value of The Sassi (Italian for The Stones) became appreciated and citizens were offered caves as “land grants” if they would restore them. Such a project was of course the granddaddy of all renovation projects, and took years. During the process people frequently discovered an actual network of caves augmented by a vast array of cisterns built very long ago as the water supply. It was architecturally and physically challenging. Today a few people still live in their renovated caves. Most have become hotels, restaurants and tourist experiences.

To be honest, we were not aware of the long history when we opted for this experience. It just sounded like something cool and different to do. At first we booked a room in an authentic cave, then discovered that dampness and having to traverse the uneven floors to connected caves for the bathroom in the middle of the night would likely impact the experience. So we ended up at the Aquatico Hotel and Spa, where we slept in a very nice (and quite modern) cave, dined morning and evening in a cave, swam in their amazing cave pool and even had massages in a cave.

The village of Matera is peaceful and beautiful. It has been the setting for some famous movies, and is quite hilly with many steps. Staying in one of the Sassi’s cave hotels has apparently become one of Europe’s more different and new experiences. Where else can you stay in a room that was first occupied 9,000 years ago? We did it all, and loved it.

Thanks to Amazon Italy, friends who brought some last minute items over from Amazon US and limited but fun shopping everything Jim lost with the luggage has been replaced – in some form. Some of it will not return home with us, though. Emergency rations. It has actually been a fun adventure, resulting in some new looks. Take this one, for example. Comments range from “definite keeper”, “looks really Italian” to “classic look for a 50’s movie”.

About Puglia (pronounced locally with a silent g, so Pull’lia). We are sorry it took us so long to get here. Fascinating place for its topography, history and culture.

• It gets a small fraction of the tourists other parts of Italy experience. One consequence is that only 10% speak English. That is the lowest % we have encountered anyplace in the world, and did make for some challenges.
• Great place for getting in shape. Many many steps and lots of walking up and down hills.
• Rich agricultural area, with lots of marl embedded in the soil for heat retention and natural drainage.
• Delightful slow pace of life
• Described by one person as “Italy with Greek parents”. The architecture ranges from baroque to very unique with white buildings.
• Home of the oldest related human remains in the world. In Ostuni they discovered the remains of a 19 year old pregnant girl and her baby still in the womb at full term. Dates back to 24,000 B.C. She was from royalty, as evidenced by shell necklaces and other adornments.

The rich soil contributes to wonderful food. Wine, tomatoes, basil, mozzarella (which they do not call cheese) and many other things. Even an average meal here is superb. As one of our experiences we witnessed making mozzarella. It involves extensive working the material in 160 degree water with bare hands and arms. Not for the faint of heart, yet so good when made with their milk and truly fresh. We are spoiled now for sure.

Our next postcard will feature the caves of Matera, located between Puglia and Positano.

We are in Polignano a Mare, a beautiful coastal town in Puglia Italy (the heel of the boot if you look at a map). This postcard is a bit longer than our goal — because we hope to help you in case you end up with a lost luggage situation.

To get here we flew from Charlotte to Munich, then on a regional jet from Munich to Bari. As is common in European airports, we took a shuttle bus to far reaches of the airfield to board our regional jet. Our flight to Munich was an hour late, making our connection tight. Once aboard the plane, we wondered about our luggage also making it, so checked the location via the Apple AirTags. Betsy’s seemed to be moving towards the plane, while mine remained in the main terminal. An appeal to the guy waiting to clear the plane for departure resulted in “we are waiting for five bags. Maybe”. As we taxied out both suitcases appeared to still be on the ground.

When we landed the AirTags still showed both suitcases in Munich, so we went directly to file a claim to avoid a delay and being in a line. They did initiate the claim, yet said we had to wait and see if they actually arrived. Betsy’s made it, not mine. So with the claim filed, off we went for our one hour taxi ride to our rented apartment. That night AirTags showed the bag had arrived in Bari, and we received a confirming email asking if we wanted to pick it up or have it delivered. I chose deliver.

The next day I was told it had been given to a courier, and would be delivered by early afternoon. By then we had discovered that very few people in this area speak English, so I had the Lost and Found communicating with the manager of our apartment. Late afternoon arrived, and still no suitcase. AirTags showed it still in Bari, yet no longer at the airport. After giving them the location I was told they were asking the courier driver what happened?

The courier said he delivered all of the bags on his truck. They went to the location indicated by the AirTag and it was a vacant lot. So somehow my suitcase had “fallen off the cart” between being given to the courier and his truck, or he was lying and stole it. He was then asked to file a police report, which authorizes access to the airport camera to try to learn what actually happened.

Four more days have passed. The AirTag has moved many times. Video has not yet been seen. Yesterday they offered to pick me up to get closer and try to pinpoint where it was (after I had offered to do that the second day). When I asked what would happen if it is in a house they said they would knock on the door and speak with the owner. Since no one is trying to return it that seems fruitless and dangerous to me, so I declined.

At this point it seems very unlikely that the suitcase is intact with its contents. With the exception of a favorite rain jacket from the Masters everything can be easily replaced, although of course it is a huge hassle. We spent several hours in a Laundromat to “buy some time”, washing what we had – then did some shopping for replacements. Since we are here for six weeks a number of things are needed.

I have learned some things which seemed worth sharing:

• Our credit card insurance is better than the airline reimbursement will be, although I have to seek compensation from the airline first. Airline is $1700, credit card is $3,000. Total – $4700.
• Filing the claim will require a lot of detail, and be a hassle. We are keeping receipts.
• Amazon is a replacement source. It is possible to buy and ship from the USA, although shipping charges and Import duties double the cost. It is also easy to use my account with Amazon Italy and get stuff in several days.
• The selection is far more limited, and we have now learned that sizes are very different. A ‘M’ in the US can be XL in Italy. Some of the things I am buying will not have a future when we return home — so function over style.
• We validated a practice we have used for years. In addition to our carry-ons we each put several days clothing in the other’s checked bag. Certainly helped this time.

Despite it all we are having a wonderful time. And of course others always have bigger problems. Our good friends coming to Italy to travel with us had their flight cancelled 45 min before their departure for the airport, and could only rebook two days later. As we walk around loving this place we found this saying on a planter, and really feel like it is and has always been us.